sabato 23 marzo 2019

Baselworld 2019 (1)

This is the first of a series of posts featuring the new models on display at the world’s biggest watch show.

BREITLING

Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss WarhawkThree new Aviator 8 watches honor Curtiss Wright, a renowned American aircraft manufacturer, and the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, its most famous plane. This COSC-certified chronograph is fitted with the in-house Caliber 01.

Premier B01 Chronograph Norton Edition – This new collection celebrates the partnership between the watchmaker and the motorcycle brand renowned for its exclusive British engineering. The 42mm stainless steel case is water resistant to 100 meters. A Norton logo is engraved on the left hand side.

PATEK PHILIPPE

Ref. 5212A Calatrava Weekly CalendarThe only steel Calatrava in the current collection is a weekly calendar with a semi-integrated mechanism displaying the current week number, in addition to the day and the date. The dial font used for day, date, month and week number is meant to reproduce the look of authentic handwriting, endowing the watch with a vintage look.

Ref. 5172G Chronograph – Introduced in 2009, the movement has six patented innovations, including refined tooth profiles, blocking lever and hammers, and an optimized split seconds wheel. The white gold case has vintage-style three-tier lugs and a sapphire box glass crystal, as well as guilloched chronograph pushers.

ROLEX

Oyster Perpetual Sea-DwellerOn the new yellow Rolesor version of the Sea-Dweller, the bezel, winding crown and centre links of the bracelet are in 18 ct yellow gold, while the case and outer links of the bracelet are in Oystersteel. The unidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic.

Yacht-Master 42 – The white gold case of the new 42mm model hosts Caliber 3235, a new generation movement incorporating the Chronergy escapement that combines high energy efficiency with great dependability, the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy, as well as the Paraflex shock absorbers, which increase the movement’s shock resistance.

mercoledì 20 marzo 2019

Baselworld 2019 - A preview

Take a peek behind the scenes of the year’s biggest watch show. Here are a few pieces that will be on display starting from tomorrow.


ARTYA
 
Son of Earth Tobacco – The dial is clad in genuine tobacco leaves hand “dialized” by artist Dominique Arpa-Cirpka. The gold bezel and lateral inserts are hand engraved by Bram Ramon.

CZAPEK
 
Faubourg de Cracovie Salmon SockeyeThe guilloché dial is made of alloy 401, a combination of 55% gold and a mixture of platinum, palladium and silver with an electroplated salmon finish.

MB&F
 
Legacy Machine Flying T – The brand’s first timepiece dedicated exclusively to women is a three-dimensional creation with a cambered bezel and beveled lugs on a round case that is fully set with diamonds.

MENINTIME
 
Le Paon – The brand makes its debut with a watch offered in ten references, with case and bracelet options of bead-blasted matte, satin-brushed or hand-polished surfaces, as well as eight dial layout options.

SCHWARZ ETIENNE
 
Fiji Floral SecondsThe dial of the brand’s inaugural ladies watch is animated by a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock designed as an openworked lattice that rests above a rotating disc.
 
STROM
Nethuns II ColorumThe watch features a sculpted outer case in either 925 silver or a bronze alloy made of copper and tin. This outer case is fitted over a watertight inner case that holds the movement.


VOUTILAINEN
 
28E – The in-house and hand-finished movement features two synchronized escape wheels – a system that uses less energy and has greater stability than traditional lever escapements. The dial is grand feu enamel over gold.

 

giovedì 14 marzo 2019

lunedì 11 marzo 2019

Vintage Ads - Piaget (1984)

ENGLISH
"Piaget time is only measured in gold – Available at the world’s finest jewelers". Two ultra-thin watches of the Dancer collection – one for her and one for him.     
Do you like vintage watch ads? Please visit the page about Watch Ads, my two-volume pictorial history of communication and design in 20th Century watchmaking. You can also watch the video about the publication and download a 20-page preview of Volume 1.
The vintage ads presented in this Blog are not featured in the Watch Ads books.



ITALIANO“Il tempo Piaget si misura solo con l’oro – Disponibile presso le migliori gioiellerie del mondo”. Due modelli ultrapiatti della collezione Dancer: uno per lei e uno per lui. 
Ti piacciono le pubblicità d'epoca? Visita la pagina su Watch Ads, la mia storia illustrata in due volumi della comunicazione e del design nell'orologeria del Novecento. Puoi anche guardare il video sull'opera e scaricare l'anteprima di 20 pagine del Volume 1. 
Gli annunci pubblicitari d'epoca presentati in questo Blog non sono presentati nei volumi Watch Ads.

 

martedì 5 marzo 2019

SIHH 2019 (4)

This is the fourth of a series of posts featuring a few pieces seen in Geneva at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, the year’s first watch show.


MONTBLANC

Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph – The dial incorporates two rotating, horizontally-aligned, discs – one for the 60-second counter and the other for the 30-minute counter.

 Time WalkerBoth the 41 mm and 43 mm versions of the new chronographs feature “reverse panda” dials. The latter displays the counters in the traditional 3-6-9 positions.


PANERAI


Submersible – The brand’s collection of professional diving watches is enhanced by two 42 mm models in stainless steel with an applied ceramic disc on the rotating bezel.


Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry Edition – Water-resistant to a depth of 300 m, this titanium chronograph is inspired by the French free-diving champion known for his world records and underwater photographs.


PARMIGIANI
Kalpagraphe Chronometre Titanium – Its caliber is a COSC-certified, self-winding, integrated chronograph with date function that offers a 65-hour power reserve.
Toric Quantième Perpetuel Rétrograde – The hand guilloché dial displays a retrograde perpetual date and a precision moon phase on an aventurine disc that evokes a starry night sky.


venerdì 1 marzo 2019

Mondaine stop2go

Due chiacchiere sul modello che riproduce il design e il funzionamento degli orologi delle stazioni ferroviarie svizzere.

La lancetta dei secondi si arresta e quella dei minuti avanza con uno scatto.


sabato 23 febbraio 2019

Vintage timepieces - Patek Philippe (1970s)



ENGLISH
This Reference 3585 dating back to the mid-1970s is fitted with Caliber 350, a movement developed a few years earlier by Patek Philippe to meet the demand for thinner self-winding watches. Its design drew inspiration from the Caliber 65 "Fontomatic" by the raw movement manufacturer FHF, that featured a half-ring rotor mounted on a large toothed arc rather than a central rotor mounted on an arbor - see picture below the Italian text. The watches fitted with Caliber 350 are easily recognized, since the winding crown is on the case back. This movement proved somewhat delicate and in 1979 was replaced by Caliber 1-350, that featured a 18kt gold half-ring rotor and only wound in one direction. Its is worth noting that Patek Philippe used no less than three different automatic movements when the 1976 catalog came out: the Calibers 27-460, 28-255 and 350. Two of them are mentioned on the page shown at the bottom of this post.


Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds.
Size: 34 x 36 mm, thickness 7 mm.
Case: 18kt gold, snap-on back.
Movement: Caliber 350, self-winding, 28 mm, thickness 3.5 mm, 28 jewels, rotor winding in both directions, Gyromax balance, Breguet hairspring, shock absorber, adjusted to temperatures and five positions, 21,600 vibrations per hour.




ITALIANO
Questa Referenza 3585 degli Anni 70 è equipaggiata con il Calibro 350, movimento sviluppato qualche tempo prima da Patek Philippe per andare incontro alla domanda di orologi automatici più sottili. La sua costruzione si ispirava al Calibro 65 "Fontomatic" di FHF, fabbricante del Gruppo Ebauches, che utilizzava un rotore a semianello montato su un ampio arco dentato invece del classico rotore centrale montato su un albero (foto sotto). Gli orologi con il Calibro 350 si riconoscono facilmente perché la corona di carica si trova sul fondo della cassa. Questo movimento si dimostrò abbastanza delicato e nel 1979 fu sostituito dal Calibro 1-350, nel quale il semianello è d'oro 18 carati e carica in una sola direzione. Va notato che Patek Philippe utilizzava non meno di tre movimenti automatici diversi quando uscì il catalogo del 1976: i Calibri 27-460, 28-255 e 350. Due di essi sono citati nella pagina riprodotta alla fine di questo post.


Funzioni: Ore, minuti, secondi. 
Dimensioni: 34 x 36 mm, spessore 7 mm.
Cassa: Oro 18 carati, fondo chiuso a pressione. 
Movimento: Calibro 350, automatico, 28 mm, spessore 3,5 mm, 28 rubini, rotore a carica bidirezionale, bilanciere Gyromax, spirale Breguet, dispositivo antiurto, regolato alle temperature e su cinque posizioni, 21.600 alternanze/ora.