28.12.20

Vintage timepieces - Universal Genève Uni-Compax (1950)


ITALIANO 
A partire dal 1940, l’Uni-Compax sostituì progessivamente il Compur nel catalogo della Casa. Questo esemplare sovradimensionato risale al 1950 ed è equipaggiato con uno dei movimenti forniti da Martel Watch, società controllata da Universal dal 1936. Nel 1955 la Casa di Ginevra creò il proprio impianto industriale e abbandonò la collaborazione con Martel Watch, che fu acquisita da Zenith nel 1959.
Funzioni Ore, minuti, secondi, cronografo con contatore a 45 minuti. 
Dimensioni Diametro 37 mm,  spessore 12 mm. 
Cassa Oro rosa 18 carati, fondo chiuso a pressione. 
Movimento Calibro 285, carica manuale, diametro 31,7 mm, spessore 6,05 mm, 17 rubini, bilanciere monometallico a viti, spirale Breguet, 18.000 alternanze/ora.
 

ENGLISH
Starting from 1940, the Uni-Compax progressively replaced the Compur in the brand’s catalogue. This oversize piece dating back to 1950 is fitted with one of the calibers supplied by Martel Watch, a subsidiary of the Geneva company since 1936. In 1955 Universal created its own industrial plant and ceased its cooperation with Martel, which was taken over by Zenith in 1959.
Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with 45-minute register.
Size Diameter 37 mm,  thickness 12 mm.
Case 18k pink gold, snap-on back.
Movement Calibre 285, diameter 31.7 mm, height 6.05 mm, 17 jewels, monometallic screw balance, Breguet hairspring, 18,000 vibrations per hour.



21.12.20

Vintage ad - Girard-Perregaux (1975)

This ad dates back to 1975, the year Girard-Perregaux launched its LED digital watch - "an uncommon new timepiece". "For the first time, digital design matches digital technology", claims the copy.
Do you like vintage watch ads? Please visit the page about Watch Ads, the two-volume pictorial history of communication and design in 20th Century watchmaking. 
Click here to watch the video clip about Watch Ads. 
Click here to display and download a 20-page preview of Volume 1.
  
 
Annuncio del 1975, anno in cui Girard-Perregaux lanciò il suo orologio digitale LED: "una novità fuori dal comune". "Per la prima volta lo stile digitale è all'altezza della tecnologia digitale", dichiara il testo.
Ti piacciono le pubblicità d'epoca? Visita la pagina su Watch Ads, la storia illustrata in due volumi della comunicazione e del design nell'orologeria del Novecento.
Clicca qui per guardare il video su Watch Books.  
Clicca qui per visualizzare e scaricare un'anteprima di 20 pagine del Volume 1.

 

15.12.20

New releases - AlpinerX Alive

The features of the new Swiss Made smartwatch by Alpina include GPS, the heart rate monitoring, a chronograh and a personalised training programme. Developed internally, the AL-284 movement is equipped with a rechargeable battery and offers an average seven days’ autonomy depending on usage. A choice is available between rubber and topstitched calfskin straps, and between bidirectional bezels in black PVD coated steel or natural steel. The 45 mm fibreglass case is water-resistant to 100 metres.

   

9.12.20

Vintage timepieces - Jaeger LeCoultre (1982)

Timepiece manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1982 by assembling parts dating back to the 1940s. In the background: a page from a 1949 catalog.


Orologio fabbricato da Jaeger-LeCoultre nel 1982, assemblando pezzi originali degli Anni 40. Sullo sfondo: pagina da un catalogo del 1949.

1.12.20

New releases - IWC Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”


This nautical chronograph celebrates the watchmaker’s partnership with Orlebar Brown, the British resort wear and lifestyle brand. Worn on a blue rubber strap with textile inlay, the timepiece features a water resistance of 6 bar. The IWC-manufactured calibre 89361 with flyback function displays the measured hours and minutes together on a subdial at 12 o’clock and has a power reserve of 68 hours. The co-branded side-fastener buckle features white and red colour accents, which are often used in Orlebar Brown’s product range.

 

26.11.20

Vintage timepieces - Longines Conquest (1960s)


 
ITALIANO (scroll down for the English text) 
Fabbricato nei primi Anni 60, questo Conquest è equipaggiato con un movimento di manifattura appartenente alla quarta generazione degli automatici Longines. Al contrario dei predecessori, il calibro di base poteva ospitare l’indicazione della riserva di carica, e in questo caso era designato come Calibro 294. L’autonomia residua è indicata per mezzo di un anello graduato che ruota in senso orario e di un disco centrale che ruota in senso antiorario. La sigla LXV sul ponte del bilanciere, insieme con la lunetta, le anse e la carrure placcate oro, indicano che questo esemplare era destinato al mercato americano.  
Funzioni Ore, minuti, secondi, data, riserva di carica.
Dimensioni Diametro 35 mm, spessore 11 mm.
Cassa Placcata oro, fondo d’acciaio chiuso a vite.
Movimento Calibro 294, automatico, diametro 25,6 mm, spessore 6 mm, 24 rubini, rotore centrale a carica bidirezionale, bilanciere monometallico a viti, spirale piana, dispositivo antiurto, 19.800 alternanze/ora.



ENGLISH
Made in the early 1960s, this Conquest is fitted with an in-house movement belonging to the 4th generation of Longines automatic watches. Unlike its predecessors, the base caliber could be fitted with a running reserve indication. It was subsequently designated as Caliber 294. The remaining autonomy is displayed by a rotating scale ring running clockwise and a central disc running counter-clockwise. The acronym LXW on the balance bridge, along with the gold-plated bezel, lugs and middle case suggest that this timepiece was meant for the U.S. market.
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date, running reserve indication.  
Size Diameter 35 mm, height 11 mm.
Case Gold-plated, stainless steel screw-down back.
Movement Caliber 294, self-winding, diameter 25.6 mm, height 6 mm, 24 jewels, central rotor winding in both directions, monometallic screw balance, flat hairspring, shock absorber, 19,800 vibrations per hour.

19.11.20

Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2020


The 2020 prize list of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) was unveiled on Thursday November 12. The Jury and the new GPHG Academy handed out 19 prizes and awarded the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix to Piaget for the Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch. The Special Jury Prize went to Antoine Simonin, an influential player on the watchmaking scene.

PRIZE LIST

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: Piaget, Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Ladies’ Watch Prize: Bovet 1822, Miss Audrey

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Charles Girardier, Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse « fleur de sel »

Men’s Watch Prize: Voutilainen, 28SC

 

Men’s Complication Watch Prize: Greubel Forsey, Hand Made 1

 

Iconic Watch Prize: Bulgari, Aluminium Chronograph 

Chronometry Watch Prize: Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, FB 2RE.2

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize: Vacheron Constantin, Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Mechanical Exception Prize: Bovet 1822, Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter 2

Chronograph Watch Prize: H. Moser & Cie, Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic

 

Diver’s Watch Prize: Breitling, Superocean Automatic 48 Boutique Edition 

Jewellery Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Frivole Secrète watch

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Soleil Féerique

“Petite Aiguille” Prize: Breitling, Superocean Heritage '57 Limited Edition II

Challenge Watch Prize: Tudor, Black Bay Fifty-Eight

 

Innovation Prize: Parmigiani Fleurier, Hijri Perpetual Calendar 

Audacity Prize: H. Moser & Cie, Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F

Horological Revelation Prize: Petermann Bédat, Dead beat second

Special Jury Prize: Antoine Simonin, watchmaker, teacher, editor and former director of the WOSTEP Foundation