Coronavirus crisis

In view of the current situation and the spread of the coronavirus, the two major watch shows of 2020 have been cancelled. Here are the relevant press releases.

WATCHES & WONDERS GENEVA
In view of the latest developments concerning the worldwide spread of the COVID-19 coronavirus, it is the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie’s duty, as organizer of Watches & Wonders Geneva, to anticipate the potential risks that travels and important international gatherings could entail. 
Therefore, in order to protect the health and wellbeing of all our guests, press, partners and teams, the decision has been taken to cancel the upcoming edition of Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly known as the SIHH) and its ‘In the City’ program, initially due to take place in Geneva from April 25th to 29th2020.  
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie understands the disappointment this year’s cancellation may cause, and remains at the disposal of its partners and guests for any queries they may have.The FHH is already working on the organization of 2021 edition of Watches & Wonders Geneva.

BASELWORLD
For health safety reasons and in accordance with the precautionary principle following the bans of large-scale public and private events issued today by the Swiss federal and cantonal authorities, Baselworld announces that it has taken the decision to postpone the show to Thursday 28th January 2021 to Tuesday 2nd February 2021 (Press Day on Wednesday 27th January), due to concerns related to Covid-19. 
Baselworld, which was to be held from April 30th to May 5th , 2020, has taken this difficult decision in close consultation with its partners and the health authorities in charge, in whom Baselworld has full confidence for their expertise and recommendations for the benefit of exhibitors, visitors and collaborators. Following today’s official ban on large public gatherings which meant direct repercussions for the show, Baselworld had no other option than to make a decision as all preparations, in particular, construction in the halls and of the stands was scheduled to commence next week (start March).

Bibliography / Bibliografia

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è sotto l'immagine)

Discerning watch lovers should not be content with what the web has to offer. I am talking about books, and not only those I wrote myself. This website features a comprehensive list of the printed sources I researched over the last 30 years. It is constantly updated as I come by new or out-of-print publications, and includes my own ratings expressed in stars. I recommend a visit if you wish to deepen your knowledge of one or more subjects in connection with the history of watchmaking. The Bibliography page is waiting for you!

ITALIANO

Gli appassionati di orologi più esigenti non dovrebbero accontentarsi dei contenuti messi a disposizione dal web. Sto parlando di libri, e non solo di quelli che ho scritto io. In questo sito trovate una lista completa delle fonti cartacee sulle quali ho compiuto le mie ricerche nel corso degli ultimi 30 anni. La aggiorno costantemente, mano a mano che trovo pubblicazioni nuove o fuori catalogo, e comprende le mie valutazioni espresse in stellette. Consiglio la visita a quanti desiderano approfondire uno o più argomenti legati alla storia dell’orologeria. La pagina della Bibliografia vi aspetta!

 

Vintage Ads - Z.R.C. (1966)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è sotto l'immagine)

"Designed for Divers by Diving Experts – The Z.R.C. 300 means perfect diving security". Zuccolo-Rochet & Cie. (Z.R.C.) was the French case manufacturer that created this “Grands Fonds” (“Great Depth”) watch in the mid-1960s. Its main features were the monobloc case waterproof up to 300m and the crown located at 6 o’clock to offer better protection. Additional advantages included the highly luminous “magnum” hands, unidirectional rotating bezel and extensible bracelet.    
Do you like vintage watch ads? Visit the page about Watch Ads, my two-volume pictorial history of communication and design in 20th Century watchmaking. You can also watch the video about the publication and download a 20-page preview of Volume 1.
The vintage ads presented in this Blog are not featured in the Watch Ads books.

ITALIANO

Progettato per i sub dagli esperti delle immersioni – Il Z.R.C. 300 garantisce la massima sicurezza nelle immersioni”. Zuccolo-Rochet & Cie. (Z.R.C.) era il fabbricante francese di casse che creò questo orologio “Grands Fonds” (“Grandi Profondità”) verso la metà degli Anni 60. Le sue caratteristiche principali erano la cassa monoblocco impermeabile fino a 300 metri e la corona situata a ore 6 per garantire una protezione più efficace. Gli altri vantaggi illustrati dall’annuncio erano le lancette “Magnum” luminescenti, la lunetta girevole monodirezionale e il bracciale allungabile.
Ti piacciono le pubblicità d'epoca? Visita la pagina su Watch Ads, la mia storia illustrata in due volumi della comunicazione e del design nell'orologeria del Novecento. Guarda il video sull'opera e scarica l'anteprima di 20 pagine del Volume 1.
Gli annunci pubblicitari d'epoca che vedi in questo Blog non sono presentati nei volumi Watch Ads.

Vintage boxes - Longines (1950s)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è in fondo alla pagina)

Longines presentation boxes were among the richest in information. The English text printed inside the lid suggests that this one was meant for the leading market of the time, that of the United States - “The world’s most honored watch – 10 Worlds Fair Great Prizes – 28 Gold Medals Awards – Classified “first” by the Great Government Observatories – Official watch for Championship Sports the world over – The premier watch of Aviation, Exploration, & Science”. Both sides of the lid feature some of the medals mentioned in the text. A color catalog of the time is shown above the box.  
Do you like vintage boxes? Then The Museum Collection is a must-read for you. My book about 100 milestones of 20^th Century watchmaking features a wide selection of presentation boxes in the Appendixes. Watch the video clip about the publication and download a 20-page preview.
The vintage boxes presented in this Blog are not featured in The Museum Collection.

ITALIANO
Le scatole Longines erano tra le più ricche d’informazioni. Il testo inglese all’interno del coperchio indica che questo esemplare era destinato al mercato più importante dell’epoca, quello americano. “L’orologio più premiato del mondo – 10 Gran Premi nelle Fiere Mondiali – 28 Medaglie d’Oro – Classificato “primo” dai Grandi Osservatori Governativi – Orologio ufficiale dei grandi eventi sportivi in tutto il mondo – L’orologio preferito dall’Aviazione, dall’Esplorazione e dalla Scienza”. Su entrambi i lati del coperchio sono riprodotte alcune delle medaglie citate nel testo. Sopra la scatola appare un catalogo a colori dello stesso periodo.
Ti piacciono le scatole d'epoca? Allora The Museum Collection è la lettura che fa per te. Il mio libro su 100 icone dell’orologeria del Novecento contiene un’ampia selezione di scatole vintage nelle Appendici. Guarda il video sull'opera e scarica l'anteprima di 20 pagine del Volume 1.
Le scatole vintage presentate in questo Blog non appaiono in The Museum Collection.

Vintage library - The Canton of Neuchâtel (1948)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è in fondo alla pagina)

In 1948, the Canton of Neuchâtel celebrated its 100^th anniversary as a Republic associated to the Swiss Confederation. This 700-page book, published by the Canton’s government and printed by Courvoisier from La Chaux-de-Fonds, deals with the local economic and cultural life.

Watchmaking does the lion’s share of the industrial activities as a whole, making up half the pages of the relevant chapter.

A few timepieces manufactured in the Canton. Collectors will readily recognize the Chronomat by Breitling.

A workshop at Fontainemelon, the world’s oldest raw movements manufacturer.

The second half of the book features the portraits of several companies. A 3-page report deals with Spillmann & Cie., a casemaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds. The text points out that Spillmann manufactures waterproof watch cases since 1926 and gives a few interesting details about the production process, but does not disclose the name of the company’s main customer. We now know that it was Rolex, which entrusted Spillmann with the industrialization of the Oyster patent.

ITALIANO
Nel 1948, il Cantone di Neuchâtel celebrò i 100 anni dalla sua fondazione come Repubblica associata alla Confederazione Elvetica. Questo libro di 700 pagine, pubblicato dal governo locale e stampato da Courvoisier di La Chaux-de-Fonds, tratta la vita economica e culturale della regione.
L’orologeria fa la parte del leone nel settore della produzione industriale, occupando metà delle pagine del relativo capitolo.
Terza foto dall'alto: alcuni orologi prodotti nel Cantone. I collezionisti riconosceranno subito il Chronomat di Breitling.
Quarta foto dall'alto: un reparto di Fontainemelon, il produttore di movimenti grezzi più antico del mondo.
Ultima foto: la seconda metà del libro contiene i ritratti di numerose ditte. Tre pagine sono dedicate a Spillmann & Cie., fabbricante di casse a La Chaux-de-Fonds. Il testo sottolinea che Spillmman produce casse impermeabili fin dal 1926 e fornisce dettagli interessanti sul processo di fabbricazione, ma non rivela il nome del cliente principale. Oggi sappiamo che si trattava di Rolex, che affidò a Spillmann l’industrializzazione del brevetto Oyster.

  

New Watches

This post features a few noteworthy recent releases.

ARNOLD & SON

Time Pyramid Tourbillon – The A&S 8615 movement is built on three levels with the tourbillon, which carries subsidiary seconds, and the two power-reserve indicators superposed by the sapphire crystal hour dial, itself crowned with a ring to indicate the minutes.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Royal Oak Self-Winding Chronograph – In order to adapt the Royal Oak's octagonal forms to the new 38mm case, watchmakers have rethought the Grande Tapisserie-patterned dial. A rhodium treatment ensures that the three chronograph counters and small seconds stand out against the anthracite dial.

BLANCPAIN

Fifty Fathoms Barakuda – Back in the 1960s, the brand supplied the German Navy with Fifty Fathoms watches via Barakuda, a manufacturer and distributor of diving equipment. Now the watchmaker is reviving a civilian equivalent of its legendary dive watch as a limited edition with a distinctly vintage air.

BREITLING

Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition – Nearly identical to the original 1959 watch, this model also features a few concessions to modernity in the increased water-resistance (now 30 metres), Super-LumiNova® on the dial and Breitling's new B09 calibre; a manual-winding movement inspired by the renowned B01.

TAG HEUER

Autavia Isograph – Autavia is back in seven cockpit-inspired iterations including this one in bronze complete with a smoky-effect green dial and a black ceramic bezel. Only the word Isograph on the dial reveals the presence of the brand's carbon-composite balance spring, part of the chronometer-certified Calibre 5.

Masterpieces of the past - Vacheron & Constantin (1819)

 

A pocket hour and quarter repeater
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Orologio da tasca con ripetizione sonora delle ore e dei quarti
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