Watches at auction

Here are a few highlights from the upcoming auctions held by Phillips.

 

Geneva, 10-11 May

This pink gold Rolex Ref. 8171 comes with its original guarantee and COSC certificate. It features a crisp and well-preserved 38 mm case crafted by Favre-Perret, and an untouched dial aged to an ivory hue. Estimate: CHF 350,000-700,000

 

The Vacheron & Constantin minute repeater Ref. 6448 was produced in three unique examples. This platinum version with diamond indexes has remained within the same family since its creation in 1961. Estimate : CHF 120,000-240,000

 

Hong Kong, 24-25 May

This rare version of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3448 – the world’s first self-winding perpetual calendar – does not feature the moon phase indication at 6 o’clock. Only four such examples in yellow gold are known to exist. Estimate : US$ 150,000-300,000

 

This Rolex Cosmograph Ref. 6263 features the UAE Quraysh Hawk emblem and the Arabic script signature of the Ministry of Defense. Only a handful of these special commissions exist. Estimate: US$ 150,000-300,000

 

 

New releases – Solar Aqua Asgard

The brand born from the merger of the Swiss brand Aqua and the North American brand Solar introduces this limited edition of 300 pieces. Water resistant to 200 m, the 42 mm black 316L steel case features a PVD black coating and a forged carbon bezel. The open dial in the central area allows a view of the Swiss Peseux movement, customized for Solar Aqua. Positioned outside the central counter, the hour hand has a trapezoidal shape that mirrors the peak of Mount Asgard, the Canadian mountain, famous for its two flat-topped peaks and named after the realm of the gods in Norse mythology.

New releases – Benrus Type 2

Just over 100 years after its founding, the independent New York brand reissues its iconic tool watches. First issued in the early 1970s, the Type 2 makes its return with a classic 39.5 mm steel case, and with the 41.5 mm bronze case seen here, water resistant to 200 metres. Its sapphire back offers a view of the Swiss automatic movement based on the ETA 2892 caliber. The dial features the traditional military 12/24 hour format with small triangles marking each hour.

Watches & Cars - Vacheron & Constantin / Horch (1939)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è in fondo alla pagina)

This 1:18 diecast model reproduces the Horch 855 Roadster, introduced in 1939. A part of the Auto Union Group, which also included Audi, the German manufacturer was mostly known for the luxury cars that introduced 8-cylinder engines in series production.

The extravagantly expensive 855 Roadster was produced in less than ten examples a few months before World War II broke out. This video clip features the life-size car that inspired the model's creators, on display at the 2014 Salon Retromobile in Paris.

It is safe to assume that the owners of such vehicles did not wear ordinary timepieces. This Vacheron & Constantin Ref. 4072 chronograph might have been a decent match, as its production started more or less at the same time Horch introduced its dream car, and the Geneva brand enjoyed a flattering reputation among well-off gentlemen of the time.

The beautifully finished, indelible silvered dial of this example does not feature the tachymeter scale that allows for speed measurement, but the buyer probably did not mind – he got all the information he needed from his car’s dashboard.

The movement is Caliber 434, an upgrade of Caliber 22 that the well-known chronograph specialist Valjoux made exclusively for Vacheron & Constantin.

 

ITALIANO

Questo modellino metallico in scala 1:18 riproduce la Horch 855 Roadster del 1939. Il fabbricante tedesco, membro del gruppo Auto Union di cui faceva parte anche Audi, era noto soprattutto per le auto di lusso che introdussero i motori a 8 cilindri nella produzione di serie. Eccezionalmente costosa, la 855 fu prodotta in meno di dieci esemplari alcuni mesi prima che cominciasse la Seconda Guerra Mondiale. Questo video mostra l'esemplare autentico che ha ispirato i creatori del modellino, esposto a Parigi durante il Salone Retromobile del 2014.
Si può immaginare che i proprietari di vetture come questa non indossassero orologi qualunque. Il cronografo Ref. 4072 di Vacheron Constantin si può definire un abbinamento appropriato. La produzione cominciò più o meno nello stesso periodo in cui Horch lanciò la sua Roadster da sogno, e la Casa di Ginevra godeva di una reputazione lusinghiera presso le classi abbienti del tempo.

Il quadrante argentato indelebile e splendidamente rifinito di questo esemplare non possiede la scala tachimetrica indispensabile per misurare la velocità, ma al compratore probabilmente non interessava poiché poteva leggere queste informazioni sul cruscotto della sua auto. Il movimento è il Calibro 434, raffinata versione del Calibro 22 che Valjoux, noto specialista dei cronografi, destinava esclusivamente a Vacheron & Constantin.

New releases – Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne

Exclusive to Hublot boutiques in Switzerland, this self-winding chronograph is a tribute to Lucerne’s world-famous landmark. Its dial features a wood marquetry motif, inlaid on a carbon plate to echo the wooden structure within the Chapel Bridge. The material is sourced directly from the burned wood salvaged from the devastating fire of August 1993. The 45 mm brushed titanium case is complemented by a brushed blackened aged titanium bezel. Its back presents an intricate metallic rendering of the Chapel Bridge. The piece is completed by a vintage-inspired brown leather strap.

 

  

New releases – Breva Segreto di Lario

 

Limited to 25 pieces, the timepiece is instantly recognizable by the crossed hands of the double power reserve indicator. The first tracks the power reserve over six days, the second takes over for the final 24 hours. The manual winding movement created by Jean-François Mojon features dual barrels and high-end finishes. Water resistant to 50 m, the cushion-shaped 18k rose gold case is 41 mm large and 11.1 mm thick. The central part of the dial features a vertical satin finish that extends to a lower section adorned with vertical Côtes de Genève and polished chamfers.

 

Classic timepieces - Rolex/Eaton ¼ Century Club (1953)

The only unsigned but authentic Rolex watch. From the 10e10.ch YouTube channel. Enjoy!

L'unico Rolex non firmato ma autentico. Dal canale YouTube di 10e10.ch. Buona visione!

 

 

New releases - Arnold & Son 38 HM Steel Amber

The Baltic amber used for the dial comes from a block weighing 1.6 kilograms, fossilized more than 30 million years ago. No two pieces have exactly the same pattern of streaks. The 39.5 mm steel case hosts the extra thin Caliber A&S1001, an in-house hand-wound movement with a 90-hour power reserve. Its price is CHF 19,500 incl. VAT.

 

Vintage ads - Patek Philippe (ca. 1955)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è sotto l'immagine) 

“Patek Philippe (…) considers this PERPETUAL Calendar Watch among its greatest achievements. (…) This normal-size wrist watch has the amazing ability of telling you not only the correct day, date and month of the year – but changes completely on its own for 28, 30 and 31 day months. (…) Only a few can own this Patek Philippe – because only a few are made!” The pictured timepiece is the Ref. 2438, which in the early 1950s replaced the Ref. 1526. The new perpetual calendar featured a sweep second hand rather than the subsidiary second dial of its predecessor. According to this ad, Patek Philippe “gave the world the first stem-winding watch” in 1840. This is incorrect, as in 1840 Adrien Philippe had not patented his invention yet and – more importantly – his first meeting with Norbert de Patek took place a few years later.

Do you like vintage watch ads? Visit the page about Watch Ads, the one and only two-volume pictorial history of communication and design in 20th Century watchmaking. Do you wish to know more? Watch the video clip about the publication and download the preview of Volume 1.

The vintage ads presented in this website are not featured in the Watch Ads books.

 

 

ITALIANO

“Patek Philippe (…) considera questo orologio con calendario PERPETUO uno dei suoi successi più grandi. (…) Questo orologio da polso di dimensioni normali ha la straordinaria capacità di indicare con esattezza non solo il giorno, la data e il mese dell’anno, ma anche di tenere conto dei mesi di 28, 30 e 31 giorni. (…) Pochi possono indossare questo Patek Philippe … perché ne facciamo pochi!” Il modello illustrato è la Ref. 2438, che nei primi Anni 50 sostituì la Ref. 1526. Nel nuovo calendario perpetuo la lancetta dei secondi si trovava al centro, mentre nel suo predecessore era a ore 6. Secondo il testo, Patek Philippe “diede al mondo il primo orologio con corona di carica” nel 1840. Affermazione inesatta: nel 1840 Adrien Philippe non aveva ancora brevettato la sua invenzione e, soprattutto, il primo incontro con Norbert de Patek ebbe luogo alcuni anni più tardi.

Ti piacciono le pubblicità d'epoca? Visita la pagina su Watch Ads, l'unica storia illustrata in due volumi della comunicazione e del design nell'orologeria del Novecento. Vuoi saperne di più? Guarda il video sull'opera e scarica l'anteprima del Volume 1.

Gli annunci pubblicati in questo sito non appaiono nei due volumi Watch Ads.

 

 

 

New releases – Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Two new limited editions complete the collection’s color range with the green of forests. Available in a 42mm stainless steel case (718 pieces) or an 18K rose gold case (36 pieces), the watch features a world map dial, a date window, and a green leather strap. Its Manufacture caliber allows the wearer to read the time zones of 24 reference cities via a 24-hour disc, complemented by a date hand. All functions are adjusted using a single crown.

 

New releases - Cedric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds

This second collaboration between Ace Jewelers and Cedric Bellon features a case, dial, and buckle crafted from 100% repurposed grade 5 titanium, sourced from factory leftovers, which contributes to a sustainability score of 84.44%. The Dubois Dépraz movement DD10460 is also repurposed, sourced from unused stock rather than newly manufactured, and delivers a power reserve of 44 hours. The ton-sur-ton, monochrome look is complemented by Superluminova on the hands and indexes, ensuring legibility in low light.

Jean Lassale: ultra-thin wonders

A 1970s story - record-breaking watches with an unhappy fate.

Enjoy the brand-new mini documentary from the 10e10.ch by Marco Strazzi You Tube channel. 

And do not forget to subscribe!

 

 

Jean Lassale: ultrapiatti da record

Una storia degli Anni 70: orologi da primato con un destino infelice. 

Guarda l'ultimo mini-documentario dal canale YouTube di 10e10.ch by Marco Strazzi.

E non dimenticare di iscriverti!

New releases – Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916

Created in collaboration with the Italian motorcycle manufacturer and released as a limited edition of 250 pieces, this model celebrates the 30^th anniversary of the Ducati 916 motorcycle. Its features include a mat black ceramic bezel on a marbled-black Carbon Forged case body, integrated with Grade 5 Titanium crown, case-back and buckle. The proprietary developed calibre supports a two-level dial with the jumping hours disk on top.

 

 

New releases – Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Collection

Waterproof to 50 m, the 42 mm steel case features an aluminium rotating bezel. The dial’s azure matte blue and black lacquered base is adorned with white super luminova indexes. Made by Selllita, the self-winding Caliber RL200 has a 38-hour power reserve. A version with a green bezel and an orange rubber strap is also available.

 

 

Vintage library - La Suisse Horlogère (1949)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è in fondo alla pagina) 

This 32-page brochure was created by the Swiss Chamber of Watchmaking - the employers’ association that also published the quarterly magazine “La Suisse Horlogère”.

 

 

The author is Pierre Huguenin, who starts by telling a brief history of watchmaking since the Middle Ages. 

The following sections deal with materials, style, waterproofness, movements, accuracy, and servicing.

 

All in all, a fine and richly illustrated example of popularization aimed at both the sales people and the general public. Its only defect being a common practice of the contemporary trade press: the brand names of the watchmakers were erased from the dials of the featured timepieces, presumably to avoid free advertising. No harm done: the modern-day collector will be more than happy to guess the missing names …

 

ITALIANO 

Questo opuscolo di 32 pagine fu realizzato dalla Camera Svizzera dell’Orologeria, l’organizzazione padronale che pubblicava anche la rivista trimestrale “La Suisse Horlogère”. L’autore è Pierre Huguenin, che comincia con una breve storia dell’artigianato orologiero dal Medio Evo. Le sezioni seguenti trattano i materiali, lo stile, l’impermeabilità, i movimenti, la precisione e la manutenzione. Nel complesso, un esempio di divulgazione riuscito, riccamente illustrato e diretto sia al personale di vendita sia al pubblico. L’unico difetto è una pratica diffusa nella stampa specializzata dell’epoca: i nomi delle marche sono stati cancellati dai quadranti degli esemplari illustrati, presumibilmente per evitare la pubblicità gratuita. Poco male: il collezionista di oggi sarà felice di provare a indovinare i nomi mancanti…

 

 

New releases – Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription

This model pays homage to the brand’s roots and founder. Limited to 20 pieces, this edition is faithful to the original model of the 1990s in style and craft, but new in terms of mechanics, with the DR002 movement within having been developed and manufactured in house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The latter also made the solid gold dials, engine turned by a single artisan in a process that required 10 hours of work per dial. The 18k yellow gold case retains the double ellipse form, but with a centered godron along its outline for a balanced profile. 

 

 

New releases- Anywhere Arborea

This limited edition of 15 platinum pieces reinterprets Henri Rousseau’s iconic painting "The Virgin Forest at Sunset." Each one of the 575 miniature alveola – unique in size and shape – is hand-painted. The watch allows its wearer to know the length of the day and the times of sunrise and sunset for a location of their choice, anywhere in the world. The 39 mm case hosts the manual winding Caliber C030, featuring a 72-hour power reserve.

 

 

Watches at auction - World records

In 2024, Phillips Watches sold 1,790 lots at auction with 25 timepieces selling above US$1 million. Among them were the three examples pictured below.

 

This 18ct gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona with ‘Paul Newman Lemon dial’, brown ‘tropical’ subsidiary registers and outer track sold for over US$2.8 million and set the world auction record for Reference 6264. The Geneva Watch Auction XX, November 2024.

 

 

This world time Patek Philippe Ref. 2523/1 in yellow gold features two crowns, a guilloche dial and metallic city ring. It sold for US$1,934,840. The Geneva Watch Auction, May 2024.

 

 

This magnetic ‘water clock’ by Cartier dates to circa 1929 and came with the original presentation box. It is made of marble, silver, lapis lazuli, nephrite, coral, mother-of-pearl, enamel and jade. It sold for US$1,917,657, setting a world record for this kind of timepiece. The Hong Kong Watch Auction XVIII, May 2024.

New releases – Suchy & Söhne Belvedere

The Champagne & Bordeaux models are the latest additions to the Belvedere collection. The moving date window advances day by day. The 40.8 mm 316L, pearl-blasted steel case is water resistant to 10 ATM and hosts the automatic Caliber CSS201, based on a Dubois-Dépraz movement and equipped with a gold-plated oscillating weight. The latter features a micro engraving of the Vienna Belvedere Palace.