New releases - Depancel Allure Valjoux 92 Bleu de France

The French brand has restored the Valjoux 92 chronograph movement and housed it in a limited edition of 20 pieces. The deep blue hue of the sunburst dial was inspired by the liveries of classic French racing cars, and features a pulsometer and tachymeter scale, both centrally displayed. The brushed and polished 316L stainless steel case measures 39mm. The retail price is €3900, with a 5-year warranty.

 

 

New releases - Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin III

 

This self-winding regulator features a mono-eyed hours disk at 12 o’clock, and a rotating toothed mouth for small seconds at 6 o’clock. Two editions are available in 178 pieces each. The 42mm model features a blue minutes ring and a toad leather strap. The 39mm model features a red minutes ring and a grained calfskin strap. Both stainless steel cases host the Sellita Caliber SW266-1.

Summer readings / Letture estive

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è in fondo alla pagina)

Looking for something serious to read during the Summer? The right answer is one of Marco Strazzi’s Watch Books.

 

The Museum Collection is a selection of 100 milestones of 20^th Century watchmaking. The technology, design and style of the more and less well-known models that made the history of timekeeping from 1900 to 2000. Click here to learn more.

Watch Ads 1900-1959 and Watch Ads 1960-2000 take the reader through a century of communication. The thousand or so featured images are living history and a faithful testimony of how design, styling and the public’s tastes evolved. Click here to learn more.

Rolex 1905-1960 focuses on the company’s first half-century - the years that shaped its identity and paved the way to worldwide success. Timeline, watches, movements, ads, patents, documents. Click here to learn more.

The publisher has a recommendation for fiction lovers, as well. The historical novel Wingwatch tells the story of a wristwatch, lost on D-Day and rediscovered 70 years later in an auction house catalog. Click here to learn more.

 

ITALIANO

Cerchi qualcosa di interessante da leggere durante l'estate? La risposta giusta è un volume della collezione Watch Books di Marco Strazzi.

 

Orologi da Polso 1900-1959 è la prima parte della nuova storia enciclopedica dell’orologio da polso. Lo stravagante braccialetto con orologio deriso dai conformisti diventa uno strumento indispensabile. Clicca qui per saperne di più.

Orologi da polso 1960-2000 conclude la cronistoria del Ventesimo Secolo. Dall’orologio elettrico al rinascimento della meccanica, passando attraverso la crisi del quarzo. Con un’appendice sul ventennio 2001-2021. Clicca qui per saperne di più.

Watch Ads 1900-1959 e Watch Ads 1960-2000 accompagnano il lettore lungo un secolo di comunicazione. Un migliaio di annunci pubblicitari raccontano l’evoluzione del design e dei gusti attraverso i decenni. Clicca qui per saperne di più.

Rolex 1905-1960 è dedicato al primo mezzo secolo della Casa: gli anni che ne hanno definito l’identità creando le premesse di un successo planetario. Cronologia, orologi, movimenti, pubblicità, brevetti, documenti originali. Clicca qui per saperne di più.

L’editore ha un consiglio anche per gli amanti della narrativa. L’Orologio con le Ali racconta la storia di un orologio smarrito il 6 giugno 1944 (D-Day) e riscoperto 70 anni più tardi nel catalogo di una casa d’aste. Clicca qui per saperne di più.

 

 

New releases – Schwarz Etienne Geometry Black

 

Created in collaboration with designer Eric Giroud, the hand-guilloché geometric patterns of arcs and reliefs found on the dial are executed using a variety of finishes : fluted lines, azuré, clous de Paris and fine sandblasted finishes. The polished 39 mm stainless steel case houses the in-house ASE 200.02 automatic caliber with a microrotor and a double barrel offering an 86-hour power reserve. 

 

 

New releases – Dennison A.L.D. Collection

Established in 1874, the original British company was a renowned casemaker for top Swiss brands. Now the Dennis Watch Company returns to watchmaking with a series of eleven timepieces signed by Swiss designer Emmanuel Gueit and inspired by the cushion shapes of the 1960s. The A.L.D. Collection was named after the initials of the company’s founder (Aaron Lufkin Dennison). This model features a 33.65mm case in stainless steel, a midnight aventurine stone dial and a Ronda quartz movement. Price: $ 690 before tax. 

 

Vintage ads - Hamilton (1937)

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'Hamilton accuracy is an invaluable guide to United’s pilots – checking position in the air, calculating air speed, timing radio communication with airports along the way …' In 1937, United Airlines introduced the Douglas DC-3 Mainliners. With a range of 1,500 miles, they flew from New York to San Francisco in less than 16 hours with only three stops along the way. The ad pays tribute to this unprecedented feat, while pointing out that Hamilton – for a long time presented as 'the watch of railroad curacy' – was now a 'watch of airline accuracy', as well. Finally, the text reminds that 'Hamilton makes no watches with fewer than 17 jewels, no watches cased in less than platinum, solid gold or gold filled'.

Do you like vintage watch ads? Visit the page about Watch Ads, the one and only two-volume pictorial history of communication and design in 20th Century watchmaking. Do you wish to know more? Watch the video clip about the publication and download the preview of Volume 1. 

The vintage ads presented in this website are not featured in the Watch Ads books.

 

ITALIANO 

“La precisione Hamilton è un punto di riferimento essenziale per i piloti di United, che la usano per il controllo della posizione, il calcolo della velocità, la gestione delle comunicazioni radio con gli aeroporti durante il viaggio …” Nel 1937, United Airlines presentò i Douglas DC-3 Mainliners, che con la loro autonomia di 1.500 miglia volavano da New York a San Francisco in meno di 16 ore e con appena tre scali durante il viaggio. L’annuncio rende omaggio a questa impresa senza precedenti, sottolineando che l’orologio Hamilton – a lungo pubblicizzato per la sua “precisione ferroviaria” – possedeva ora una “precisione aerea”. Infine, il testo ricorda che “Hamlton non crea orologi con meno di 17 rubini e casse di metalli meno preziosi del platino, dell’oro massiccio e del placcato oro.”    

Ti piacciono le pubblicità d'epoca? Visita la pagina su Watch Ads, l'unica storia illustrata in due volumi della comunicazione e del design nell'orologeria del Novecento. Vuoi saperne di più? Guarda il video sull'opera e scarica l'anteprima del Volume 1.

 

New releases - Doxa Sub 350T Divingstar

The brand brings the GMT function back into the Sub Collection. The 40mm stainless steel case features a patented unidirectional bezel with diving scales, a screw-down crown and water resistance to 250 metres. The Divingstar model seen here is easily recognisable by the yellow dial and FKM rubber strap, available as an alternative to the classic stainless steel ‘beads of rice’ bracelet. The Swiss automatic movement has a 50-hour power reserve. Price : CHF 2,390.

 

Watches at auction

Here are a few highlights from the auction Phillips swill hold on 7-8 June in New York.

 

 

Offered for the first time in nearly 40 years, this yellow gold Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 retains its original factory finishing with full, thick lugs indicative of hardly any use and showing no signs of a previous polishing. The dial shows no aging or any signs of prior interventions Estimate : US$ 400,000-800,000

This pink gold Patek Philippe Ref. 530 has never been seen at public auction. With a production timeline spanning from 1937 until 1962, only approximately 140 examples of this chronograph are believed to have been produced, all of which were offered to important clients, never appearing in the brand’s catalogues. Estimate : US$ 300,000-600,000

 

Only four examples of a stainless steel Ref. 570 with large Breguet numerals and three-tone dial are known to the public, of which this is the fourth. Purchased at a National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors’ “watch mart” in the early 2000s, its custodian for the past two decades is a former military watchmaker and avid collector. Estimate: US$ 200,000-400,000

 

 

  

The Ref. 3970 was the first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph to indicate leap years, and the first to add a 24-hour indicator. Only a very small number of 3970s are known to be fitted with this specific matte golden dial. Estimate: US$ 150,000-300,000

 

 

Zenith El Primero - The revival

The launch, near-end and comeback – the first 20 years of a legend

Enjoy the brand-new mini documentary from the 10e10.ch by Marco Strazzi You Tube channel ... and do not forget to subscribe!

Zenith El Primero - La rinascita

Gli inizi, la fine prematura, il ritorno: i primi 20 anni di una leggenda.

L'ultimo mini-documentario dal Canale YouTube 10e10.ch by Marco Strazzi.

Buona visione ... e non dimenticare di iscriverti!

 

New Releases - Taos Savile Row

Developed by Geneva-based watchmaker Olivier Gaud and crafted by the 40 artisans at the Atelier Olivier Vaucher in Geneva, this unique piece pays tribute to the London street synonymous with sartorial elegance. The creation of the dial’s pattern requires multiple techniques: engraving beneath enamel, applying multi-layered transparent enamels, miniature enamel painting, mult-layered ‘fondant’ covering. The finishing of the self-winding VOP318 caliber, made by the Swiss specialist Télôs at the brand’s express request, is the result of over 150 hours of hand engraving. The 18k gold case measures 38mm in diameter and 10mm in thickness. Price: CHF 140,000.

New releases – Bremont Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-Pusher

Evolved from the British brand’s Altitude collection, this timepiece features a complication module exclusively devised by the Geneva atelier Agenhor. Along with the manually wound Sellita calibre, it delivers a 50-hour power reserve. The 42mm case in grade 2 titanium features the Bremont’s signature three-piece Trip-Tick construction. The Air Force blue dial presents complex information with visual clarity. A domed disc at 12 o’clock provides the second time zone indication. The subdials at 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock display the perpetual calendar’s indications. Price : £ 33,500.

Watches and movies

The latest video clip from The Watch Library deals with the 100-year long relationship between cinema and timepieces.

 

 

 

New releases – Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC

The full-ceramic 41mm case features the patented Case Suspension System that absorbs shocks and enhances comfort with four integrated springs allowing the watch to dynamically adapt to wrist movement. The patented micro-adjustable ceramic clasp allows for fine-tuning the fit while the watch is on the wrist. The COSC-certified automatic movement is a sketetonised version of the Swiss made Caliber SW200-1SC. Prices from CHF 3'970.-

New releases – BA111OD Chapter 4 Skeleton Tourbillon Ice White

Designed and manufactured in the Jura Arc, the watch combines an openwork architecture with cutting-edge engineering. Its 40mm stainless steel case, distinguished by its signature 4 o’clock crown, showcases an open dial that reveals the movement within. The tourbillon, positioned at 7 o’clock, is a tribute to one of the most revered complications in watchmaking. This hand-wound skeletonized movement, developed by master watchmaker Olivier Mory, offres a 100-hour power reserve. Prices from CHF 6'400.-

 

Watches at auction

Here are a few highlights from the upcoming auctions held by Phillips.

 

Geneva, 10-11 May

This pink gold Rolex Ref. 8171 comes with its original guarantee and COSC certificate. It features a crisp and well-preserved 38 mm case crafted by Favre-Perret, and an untouched dial aged to an ivory hue. Estimate: CHF 350,000-700,000

 

The Vacheron & Constantin minute repeater Ref. 6448 was produced in three unique examples. This platinum version with diamond indexes has remained within the same family since its creation in 1961. Estimate : CHF 120,000-240,000

 

Hong Kong, 24-25 May

This rare version of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3448 – the world’s first self-winding perpetual calendar – does not feature the moon phase indication at 6 o’clock. Only four such examples in yellow gold are known to exist. Estimate : US$ 150,000-300,000

 

This Rolex Cosmograph Ref. 6263 features the UAE Quraysh Hawk emblem and the Arabic script signature of the Ministry of Defense. Only a handful of these special commissions exist. Estimate: US$ 150,000-300,000

 

 

New releases – Solar Aqua Asgard

The brand born from the merger of the Swiss brand Aqua and the North American brand Solar introduces this limited edition of 300 pieces. Water resistant to 200 m, the 42 mm black 316L steel case features a PVD black coating and a forged carbon bezel. The open dial in the central area allows a view of the Swiss Peseux movement, customized for Solar Aqua. Positioned outside the central counter, the hour hand has a trapezoidal shape that mirrors the peak of Mount Asgard, the Canadian mountain, famous for its two flat-topped peaks and named after the realm of the gods in Norse mythology.

New releases – Benrus Type 2

Just over 100 years after its founding, the independent New York brand reissues its iconic tool watches. First issued in the early 1970s, the Type 2 makes its return with a classic 39.5 mm steel case, and with the 41.5 mm bronze case seen here, water resistant to 200 metres. Its sapphire back offers a view of the Swiss automatic movement based on the ETA 2892 caliber. The dial features the traditional military 12/24 hour format with small triangles marking each hour.

Watches & Cars - Vacheron & Constantin / Horch (1939)

ENGLISH (il testo italiano è in fondo alla pagina)

This 1:18 diecast model reproduces the Horch 855 Roadster, introduced in 1939. A part of the Auto Union Group, which also included Audi, the German manufacturer was mostly known for the luxury cars that introduced 8-cylinder engines in series production.

The extravagantly expensive 855 Roadster was produced in less than ten examples a few months before World War II broke out. This video clip features the life-size car that inspired the model's creators, on display at the 2014 Salon Retromobile in Paris.

It is safe to assume that the owners of such vehicles did not wear ordinary timepieces. This Vacheron & Constantin Ref. 4072 chronograph might have been a decent match, as its production started more or less at the same time Horch introduced its dream car, and the Geneva brand enjoyed a flattering reputation among well-off gentlemen of the time.

The beautifully finished, indelible silvered dial of this example does not feature the tachymeter scale that allows for speed measurement, but the buyer probably did not mind – he got all the information he needed from his car’s dashboard.

The movement is Caliber 434, an upgrade of Caliber 22 that the well-known chronograph specialist Valjoux made exclusively for Vacheron & Constantin.

 

ITALIANO

Questo modellino metallico in scala 1:18 riproduce la Horch 855 Roadster del 1939. Il fabbricante tedesco, membro del gruppo Auto Union di cui faceva parte anche Audi, era noto soprattutto per le auto di lusso che introdussero i motori a 8 cilindri nella produzione di serie. Eccezionalmente costosa, la 855 fu prodotta in meno di dieci esemplari alcuni mesi prima che cominciasse la Seconda Guerra Mondiale. Questo video mostra l'esemplare autentico che ha ispirato i creatori del modellino, esposto a Parigi durante il Salone Retromobile del 2014.
Si può immaginare che i proprietari di vetture come questa non indossassero orologi qualunque. Il cronografo Ref. 4072 di Vacheron Constantin si può definire un abbinamento appropriato. La produzione cominciò più o meno nello stesso periodo in cui Horch lanciò la sua Roadster da sogno, e la Casa di Ginevra godeva di una reputazione lusinghiera presso le classi abbienti del tempo.

Il quadrante argentato indelebile e splendidamente rifinito di questo esemplare non possiede la scala tachimetrica indispensabile per misurare la velocità, ma al compratore probabilmente non interessava poiché poteva leggere queste informazioni sul cruscotto della sua auto. Il movimento è il Calibro 434, raffinata versione del Calibro 22 che Valjoux, noto specialista dei cronografi, destinava esclusivamente a Vacheron & Constantin.